The Westfjords of Iceland are an untamed, remote corner of an already wild country. Despite the challenges of living there, those who make the journey find some of Iceland’s most stunning and untouched landscapes.

In a small two-room museum in the Westfjords, a local man named Midge recounted the region's long winters and frequent avalanches, which often isolate its residents.

Photographing the Waterfalls of Iceland's Westfjords

Video by Brendan van Son

The Westfjords represent the wildest and most rugged region of an already untamed country. Those who venture to this remote area are rewarded with some of Iceland’s most breathtaking and untouched landscapes. In a small, two-room museum located in a tiny town in the northwest of Iceland’s Westfjords, a local resident explained the hardships faced by the peninsula’s inhabitants, from avalanches to long winters that often cut off this region from the rest of the country. With fewer than 7,500 people scattered across 22,000 square kilometers, the Westfjords are Iceland’s least populated inhabitable area and also its coldest. Winters, which can last from September to June, bring strong winds, dense fog, and heavy snow that can shut down the region’s airports for weeks.

When asked why anyone would choose to live in such an isolated and challenging area, the local resident, who introduced himself as Midge, simply replied, “Have you looked around?” His sentiment encapsulated the draw of this rugged, fjord-filled peninsula, which juts into the North Atlantic Ocean like a claw. Only about 3% of Iceland’s tourists visit the Westfjords, partly due to its unpredictable weather and limited infrastructure, but for those who make the journey, the untouched beauty of this area is unparalleled.

The journey to the Westfjords from Reykjavik often involves driving a long and winding route, typically in rented campervans. These vehicles, though sometimes unreliable, are a popular choice for exploring the region. Ísafjörður, the largest settlement in the Westfjords, houses just 2,600 residents and sits on a pier that is little more than a kilometer long. Its streets, lined with aluminum-sided homes, seem barely strong enough to withstand the region’s infamous weather. By mid-September, snow was already in the forecast.

Despite these conditions, many travelers take the opportunity to explore neighboring areas. Súðavík, home to the Arctic Fox Center, is one such destination. This small café, museum, and rehabilitation center cares for Iceland’s only indigenous land animal, the Arctic fox. The center’s sole staff member, Stephen Midgley, is not only passionate about wildlife but also serves as part of the two-person rescue team for Súðavík’s 150 residents. In times of crisis, additional volunteers from neighboring towns often step in, arriving by boat when roads are closed due to avalanches or severe weather.

A drive through the region offers a chance to witness its dramatic landscapes, which remain vibrant even as winter approaches. The terrain features shades of green, yellow, and rust, with waterfalls cascading down nearly every mountainside. Dynjandi, the largest waterfall in the region, is a particular highlight and is often devoid of crowds, even during peak travel seasons. Many visitors find the Westfjords’ numerous waterfalls, which outnumber its human residents, to be one of the area’s most striking features.

Venturing farther into the peninsula brings more challenges. Roads are often poorly maintained, riddled with potholes and deep ruts. Látrabjarg, the westernmost point in Iceland, is a popular destination despite the difficult journey required to reach it. The towering cliffs, stretching 14 kilometers and reaching heights of 440 meters, are the largest bird cliffs in Europe. Visitors are often greeted by strong winds and awe-inspiring views of the North Atlantic Ocean meeting the sky. The cliffs are a nesting site for millions of birds in the summer, though they are largely abandoned during the winter months, adding to the serenity of the location.

Traveling through such a remote and rugged area is not without risk. Unreliable vehicles and unpredictable weather can leave visitors stranded far from help. The region’s isolation, however, also provides a rare opportunity for solitude and reflection. The emptiness of the Westfjords, with its rolling green mountains and dramatic coastline, creates an environment where travelers can feel disconnected from the outside world and deeply immersed in nature.

Despite the challenges of navigating the rough roads and coping with unpredictable conditions, the experience of exploring the Westfjords leaves an indelible impression. The untouched landscapes, cascading waterfalls, and sweeping vistas of the North Atlantic create a sense of wonder and perspective. It becomes clear why someone like Midgley would choose to live in a place where avalanches are a constant threat, winters last nine months, and the number of waterfalls far exceeds the population. The beauty of the region speaks for itself.